Picture this.
Empress Catherine’s yellow satin morning dress rustles as she walks across the parquet floor into the sunroom where our brunch is waiting. The servants dash about, placing the food and amaryllis bouquets just so. A butler pulls out a chair as the Tsarina, Empress of Russia, sits gracefully, and she beckons me to be seated directly opposite.
A Meal Fit for an Empress
As the rising sun drifts across the crisp cold sky, we dine on borscht, piroski, and champagne while she tells me about the latest procurements from her art merchant, Johann Gotzkowsky. The Empress chuckles. With a smile on her face, she relates how she and Johann secured the collection of Prussia’s Frederick II for the Russian Crown. The long-reigning Highness was thrilled that these masterworks by Rembrandt, Rubens, van Dyck, Veronese, Metsu, and Dou were just a few destined to grace the walls of the Winter Palace with many more to come.
Finding it necessary to return to her royal duties, Catherine excuses herself, softly rustling back through the doorway to her royal offices. I am escorted to my carriage out into the approaching storm that will soon bring snow and a brutal wind to the streets of St. Petersburg.
A Fictitious Story, but the Rest is Oh, So True
The circumstances of today’s bittersweet holiday bring to mind the events of a past Thanksgiving away from home and loved ones. A very special trip to Russia. After a span of 35 years, this trip remains as vivid as if it were one dashed brushstroke ago. Stamped in my mind’s eye are visions of long bus rides on lonely icy highways, stifling hot rumbling trains, golden-domed palaces, snow, Beluga caviar, new friendships, museums filled with both priceless and countless works of art, American Rock and Roll, and intriguing clandestine meetings.
From Finland to St. Petersburg
Mid-November in 1985, along with three busloads of curious travelers, we began our journey in Helsinki on an icy road pointed towards St. Petersburg, Russia the same year Mikhail Gorbachev came into power. To our great fortune, he welcomed tourism at an affordable price. A cold snowy November! What better time of year to visit Russia? We already had the Yuri and Lara bug.
A Doctor Zhivago Landscape
Snow was falling at our arrival at the historic Pribaltiyskyaya Hotel in St. Petersburg, and my mission was to visit the Hermitage Museum, also known as the Winter Palace, as often and for as long as possible. Catherine II had acquired thousands of artworks during her reign, but today, the museum boasts nearly 3 million pieces of art and artifacts gathered from around the world.
Alone with the Masters
The following morning, permission was granted by the tour guide to depart from our group for a solo visit to the museum. After a long ride on a city bus, I entered art museum heaven to spend the day alone with the masters, and my favorite, the Dutch Masters of the 17th Century. Prior to visiting Russia, I had seen Rembrandts at the Metropolitan Museum in New York, at the Smithsonian, and other museums, but the mere numbers here were truly overwhelming. At last count, 26, not including many drawings and prints.
Damage to Rembrandt’s Masterpiece
Perhaps the most famous resident of the Hermitage Museum is Danae, painted in 1646. In July of 1985, just a few months prior, a deranged man slashed this masterpiece and then threw acid onto the center of the canvas. The horrendous damage took 2 full years to repair. Nonetheless, there were many more Rembrandts to enjoy.
Over the course of the following 3 days, I became saturated in beauty and the magnificent craftsmanship of the endless array of paintings, sculpture, lapis and malachite tables and urns, marble, ink drawings, gilt frames and furniture, and so many others it is difficult to remember. And yes, I did really spend 3 days inside the Winter Palace, Catherine’s inspiration and prize to the Russian people, and to the world.
Next is Part II, Thanksgiving Dinner in Moscow, coming soon! Until then, here are a few more images from that incredible trip.
This is so beautiful! The west has yet to learn about deep seeded history and riches of the noble Russian people! We were there in 2008 and lived every minute of it!
Hello Jasminka, The wonders of our Russian adventure are a never-ending cherished memory. After all these years and countless visits to other places, Russia remains my favorite. I would love to return someday!
Thank you for sharing these beautiful Master pieces!
Thank you!!
Hello Barbara, I am so glad you enjoyed seeing the images of the Hermitage treasures. It is truly one of the wonders of the world, and I feel so fortunate to have spent 3 days absorbing the beauty. Happy Thanksgiving!
Thank you, Margret, for sharing these special and beautifully described memories.
Stay healthy, my friend! I look forward to learning about your Thanksgiving in Moscow.